Thursday, 24 November 2016

History of Spice: Saffron

Hello there! Today, I will be doing my second weekly post on a spice! For Today, I shall be writing on the spice Saffron!

Be warned though, as due to the fact that Saffron is widely used during the past (and in the present), there is a ton of information regarding it, so this post would be quite lengthy!

Harvested Saffron stamens. The stamens are considered to be the Saffron spice.
DESCRIPTION
The Saffron plant that is used to attain the spice "Saffron", Saffron Crocus (also known as Crocus Sativus, or Autumn Crocus), is an perennial plant that is not seen in the wild. Its flowers have 6 violet petals, with 3 yellow styles and 3 lengthy crimson stamens (25-30 mm in length) growing out from the flower's center.
The Flower of the Saffron plant, Saffron Crocus.
The Saffron plant can grow to a height of 20-30 cm. Around its stem, thin and long blade-like pale-white cataphylls, around 1-3 mm in diameter, grows around it. Inside those cataphylls, its leaves grows up to 40 cm in length.
Saffron Crocus. Note the pale-white cataphylls, which surrounds the Saffron flower and its leaves.
The spice "saffron", is in fact, the stigma of the Saffron flower. The styles of the Saffron plant is sometimes also considered as a spice, but it does not have the taste that is commonly associated with Saffron; In fact, it is tasteless.

Drawing of  Crocus Sativus, from the book Köhler's Medicinal Plants
The Saffron plant grows from a clusters of corms; underground, bulb-like, starch-storing brown-colored organs. Due to the fact that Crocus Savitus is sterile, these corns must be dug up, divided, and replanted in order to allow the different corms to grow into individual Saffron plants. A corm survives for one season, producing via this vegetative division up to ten "cormlets" that can grow into new plants in the next season. The compact corms are small, brown globules that can measure as large as 5 cm (2.0 in) in diameter, have a flat base, and are shrouded in a dense mat of parallel fibres; this coat is referred to as the "corm tunic". These Corms also bear vertical fibres, thin and net-like, that grow up to 5 cm above the plant's neck.

The corms of the Saffron plant.

HISTORY

SUMMARY

Saffron is reputed to have been used by humans for 3,500 years. The earliest discovery, usage and documentation of Saffron is often credited to have occurred during the 7th century BC, in an Assyrian botanical reference compiled under Ashurbanipal, an Assyrian king. However, some researchers claim that Saffron was documented much more earlier; from 1500 BC to 1600 BC; Frescoes dated during those times were supposedly found at Thera (a Greek island), where a Goddess presiding over the creation and usage of a drug derived from the Saffron flower is depicted, along with a mural of a woman using said drug to heal her bleeding leg. Aside from that, 50,000-year-old Saffron-based pigments have been found in northwest Iran, where those dyes were used in cave murals.

IN PERSIAN CULTURE

Three millennia ago, Saffron was mentioned to be a sweet-smelling spice in the Hebrew Tanakh.

During the 10th century BC, The Persian Achaemenid Empire had cultivated Saffron at the areas Derbena and Isfahan. At those locations, Saffron has been found interwoven into ancient Persian royal carpets and funeral shrouds.

An example of an ancient Persian carpet.
Saffron was also used by ancient Persian worshipers, either as a ritual offering to their deities, as a bright yellow dye, as a perfume, or as a medicine.

Saffron threads would often be scattered across beds, or mixed into hot teas and food as a curative for bouts of melancholy.

In fact, due to the extensive usage of Saffron threads then, they were soon widely suspected by foreigners to be a drugging agent and an aphrodisiac. These fears soon grew into cautions warning travelers to refrain from eating Saffron-laced Persian cuisine.

IN GRECO-ROMAN AND MINOAN CULTURE

Saffron was widely traded across the Mediterranean by the Phoenicians during Greco-Roman times.

At Thera, frescoes which are dated from the 15th century to the 16th century BC (although Experts say that they may have been created from 300 BC to 1100 BC ) were found, where a Goddess presiding over the creation and usage of a drug derived from the Saffron flower is depicted, along with a mural of a woman using said drug to heal her bleeding leg.

One of the Frescoes found at Thera. This fresco shows a lady gathering Saffron.

The ancient Greeks and Romans then had prized saffron for its usage as a perfume and deodoriser. They scattered it about public spaces such as royal halls, courts, and amphitheatres. It was recorded that when Emperor Nero entered Rome, Saffron was spread along the streets to aromatise it.
Wealthy Romans then used Saffron in their baths. They also used Saffron as mascara, stirred Saffron threads into their wines, strewn it across their halls along with other herbs and spices, and offered it to their deities.

For the Greeks, Saffron was widely associated with that of professional courtesans and retainers. In fact, Saffron was used as a dye, as large dye works operating in Sidon and Tyre used Saffron baths as a subsitute for purple dye; robes worn by Royalty were triple-dipped in deep purple dyes, while the robes worn by royal pretenders and commoners, are double-dipped in a saffron dip instead, which gave a less intense purple colouration.

There are dated accounts of Ancient Greek legends, which speaks of "sailors embarking on long voyages to the remote land of Cilicia, in order to try and obtain what they believed was the world's most valuable saffron".
There also exists another Greek legend, regarding the Saffron; Crocus and Smilax.
(Note: As with many Legends, there exists many variation. However, the gist of it is that Crocus (Or some remains of him) became the Saffron plant)

Crocus and Similax

Such evidence proves that saffron was an article of long-distance trade before Crete's Minoan palace culture reached a peak in the 2nd millennium BC.

IN EAST AND SOUTH ASIAN CULTURE

In India

There are various conflicting accounts that speaks of Saffron's first arrival in South and East Asia. 

The first of these are from historical accounts obtained from dated Persian records. These records states that Saffron, along with other spices, was first spread to India via the current Persian rulers' efforts to stock their newly built gardens and parks with said spices. They accomplished this by transplanting the desired cultivated spices across the Persian empire. In the 6th century BC, Phoenicians began to market the new Kashmiri saffron by utilizing their extensive trade routes.

On the other hand, a traditional Kashmiri legend states that saffron first arrived in the 11th or 12th century AD.
The legend goes as such;

"During the 11th (or the 12th) century AD, two foreign travelling Sufi ascetics, Khwaja Masood Wali and Hazrat Sheikh Shariffudin, wandered into Kashmir.
The foreigners, having fallen sick, beseeched a cure for illness from a local tribal chieftain.
When the chieftain obliged, the two holy men reputedly gave them a saffron crocus bulb as payment and thanks."

Due to that legend, to this day, some places, like the saffron-trading village of Pampore, India, offers grateful prayers to those two Sufi ascetics during the saffron harvesting season in late autumn. In fact, they have a golden-domed shrine and tomb dedicated to them in said village as well. 

However,  Mohammed Yusuf Teng, a Kashmiri poet and scholar, disputes this legend by stating of how Kashmiris had cultivated saffron for more than two millennia. 

Another account regarding the arrival of Saffron into East and Southeast Asian culture was made by Ancient Chinese Buddhists. In these accounts (from the mula-sarvastivadin monastic order), Saffron was said to have arrived in India during the 5th century BC, as according to those accounts, there is a legend that an Indian Buddhist missionary by the name of Madhyântika (or Majjhantika) was sent to Kashmir in the 5th century BC. Upon his arrival, he seemingly sowed the first Kashmiri saffron crop. From that point onwards, it is said that the usage of Saffron spread throughout the Indian subcontinent. 

In India, Saffron is used as a dye for Buddhist robes and Mantles.

According to Hindu religion, Lord Krishna used Saffron to put Tilak (a mark on one's forehead) daily.

In China

Some historians believe that saffron first came to China through Mongol invaders by way of Persia. 
Although around 300 AD, the Chinese had referred to Saffron as having come from Kashmiri.

During the Ming dynasty, around 1600 BC, A tome, known as the "Bencao Gangmu pharmacopoeia" (Translated to as "Great Herbal pharmacopoeia") is written by Li Shizhen. In that tome, Saffron is mentioned, proving that Saffron was used for its medicinal properties during the Ming Dynasty.

Siku quanshu Bencao Gangmu.jpg
The cover of "Bencao Gangmu pharmacopoeia"
The Chinese medical expert Wan Zhen had once wrote that "the habitat of Saffron is in Kashmir, where people grow it principally to offer it to the Buddha". He had also written on how saffron was used to aromatise wine during his time.

Lately, Saffron cultivation has spread to Afghanistan, due to the efforts of the European Union and the United Kingdom to offer an alternative to the farmers there; there are some farmers there whom illegally cultivate opium to earn money. By making them cultivate Saffron instead, the European Union and the United Kingdom hopes to reduce the production of opium in Afghanistan.

IN POST-CLASSICAL EUROPEAN TIMES

Saffron is said to have been introduced to Europe by Arabians, whom have supposedly used Saffron as an anesthesia. Saffron then started being cultivated in Europe, although demand for it declined steeply following the fall of the Roman Empire. For several centuries thereafter, Saffron cultivation became almost non-existent throughout Europe. However, when Moorish civilisation spread from North Africa to settle in the Iberian peninsula, as well as in parts of France and southern Italy, Saffron was once again re-grown.

In France, Saffron cultivation is presumed to have started during the 13th century, when the Saffron plant was (presumably) introduced from Spain and from the Middle-East by pilgrims, merchants, and Knights. Its first uses are documented in the south-west of the Kingdom around 1250.
Saffron was rare, expensive, and in demand in France then.

A 13th-century Medieval European illuminated manuscript, which depicts the assassination of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Becket. Note how for this manuscript, Saffron dyes are used to provide hues of yellow and orange.
By the 14th century, Saffron was widely used to spice and color food. This is documented in recipe books such as the "Viandier de Taillevent", written by the King's cook. Local saffron farming also becomes taxed by the religious powers then. For example, in 1478, the saffron tax levied by the Bishop of Albi reached 1/12th of saffron production.

A 15th-century edition of "Viandier de Taillevant"
In 1347, the demand for Saffron skyrocketed when the Black Death of 1347–1350 struck Europe, as Saffron became coveted by plague victims due to its medicinal properties.

In subsequent years, Saffron was fleetingly cultivated throughout England. Norfolk, Suffolk, and south Cambridgeshire. Rowland Parker,an author and social historian, have wrote that during the 16th and 17th centuries, cultivation of Saffron in the village of Foxton were done "usually by people holding a small amount of land"

In France, during the 17th and 18th centuries, Saffron production became very important. By then, saffron farming had spread throughout the entire Kingdom. During the 18th century, Saffron suffered from a mysterious decline. Historians stated that it is possibly due to a pandemic of fungal diseases destroying bulbs and crops, to particularly cold winters, or perhaps due to the farmers themselves, as competing Saffron markets from the Mediterranean countries made growing Saffron less lucrative than what it used to be.

In England, cultivation persisted only in the north Essex countryside, due to said area's land being optimal to grow Saffron. In fact, the Essex town of Saffron Walden got its name as a saffron growing and trading centre (The town's name was formerly Cheppinge Walden) and the culinary name change was made to highlight the importance of the crop to the townsfolk. In fact, the town's logo features blooms from the Saffron plant.

The logo of Saffron Walden. Note the flowers of the Saffron plant being depicted.

However, as England emerged from the Middle Ages, rising puritanical sentiments and new conquests abroad endangered English saffron's use and cultivation.

As puritanical partisans preferred unspiced foods, this results in less demand for spices in general. Also, Saffron is a labor-intensive crop, which became an increasing disadvantage as wages and time opportunity costs rose. Also, due an influx of other exotic spices from the far East (from the resurgent spice trade) meant that the English (as well as other Europeans) can select other new (and cheaper) spices to use instead of Saffron. In addition, the elite living in Europe ,whom traditionally had been the main consumers of Saffron, were now becoming increasingly interested in other new spices such as chocolate, coffee, tea, and vanilla. This resulted in a steep drop in demand for Saffron, and thus a sharp decline of Saffron cultivation in Europe. 

This has thus resulted in only some areas still cultivating Saffron. (These areas include Italy, Spain and the South of France)

IN NORTH AMERICAN TIMES

Saffron made its way to North America when thousands of people fled religious persecution in Europe.These people settled mainly in eastern Pennsylvania, in the Susquehanna River valley. By 1730, these settlers, whom became known as the Pennsylvania Dutch, were widely cultivating saffron through the Saffron corms that they brought along with them to America.

Pennsylvania Dutch saffron was soon being traded to Spanish colonists in the Caribbean, while strong demand for Saffron elsewhere around the world ensured that its listed price on the Philadelphia commodities exchange was equivalent to that of gold. However, Saffron trade with the Caribbean later collapsed in the aftermath of the War of 1812, when many Saffron-bearing merchant vessels were destroyed. Despite that, the Pennsylvania Dutch people continued to grow saffron, albeit in lesser amounts, for local trade and use in their dishes. Thus, even till now, American saffron is still being cultivated, mainly in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

ETYMOLOGY

Regarding the origin of the English word "Saffron", there is a degree of uncertainty. Some people believes that the English word "Saffron" might have its roots from the 12th-century Old French term "safran", which either comes from the Latin word "safranum" (Which has its origins from the Persian word "Za'farān" [زرپران] ), or from the Arabic word "az-za'faran" [الزعفران] (Which is said to have its origins from a Semitic root "ṣpr", which means "be/become yellow". Likewise, the Semetic root is said to have a root word from the Sumerian word "Azugna", which is used to denote an unidentifiable plant during Sumerian times)

One thing to note is that some people claim that the Arabic word "az-za'faran" [الزعفران] is the arabicized form of the Persian word "Za'farān" [زرپران]. If this is true, this would mean that both the Latin word "safranum" and the Arabic word "az-za'faran" [الزعفران] have the same origin; From the Persian word "Za'farān" [زرپران].

USAGE

The Sumerians had used saffron as an ingredient in their remedies and magical potions.

The Arabians have supposedly used Saffron as an anesthesia.

The Persians had used Saffron by dissolviing it in water, along with sandalwood, to be used as a body wash after heavy work and perspiration under the hot Persian sun.

It was recorded that Persian saffron was heavily used by Alexander the Great and his forces during their Asian campaigns, where they mixed saffron into teas and dined on saffron rice. In fact, Alexander was reputed to have bathed in Saffron-infused warm bath water, as he believed it would heal his wounds.

Persian saffron threads have been found interwoven into ancient Persian royal carpets and funeral shrouds.

Saffron was used by ancient Persian worshipers, either as a ritual offering to their deities, as a bright yellow dye, as a perfume, or as a medicine.

In the Persian empire, Saffron threads would often be scattered across beds, or mixed into hot teas and food as a curative for bouts of melancholy.

Egyptian healers used saffron as a treatment for all varieties of gastrointestinal ailments. For example, to treat internal hemorrhaging, an Egyptian treatment consisted of "Saffron seeds mixed and crushed together with aager-tree remnants, ox fat, coriander, and myrrh." This ointment was applied to the body, with the hopes that this ointment would be able to "expel bad blood through the mouth or rectum."

Urinary tract conditions were also treated with an oil-based emulsion of premature saffron flowers mixed with roasted beans; this was used topically on men. Women ingested a different version of said medicine.

The ancient Greeks and Romans had used Saffron as a perfume and deodoriser. They scattered it about public spaces such as royal halls, courts, and amphitheatres to aromatise the areas.
Wealthy Romans then used Saffron in their baths. They also used Saffron as mascara, stirred Saffron threads into their wines, strewn it across their halls along with other herbs and spices, and offered it to their deities.

The Chinese medical expert Wan Zhen had written on how saffron was used to aromatise wine.

Kashmiri saffron was used in the treatment of melancholy and also as a fabric dye.

For many centuries, Saffron stigmas are often soaked in water to yield a golden-yellow solution that was used either as a fabric or a manuscript dye.

RECIPE
 Saffron can be used as a condiment to improve the taste of poultry. The bottom link links to a recipe titled "Chicken Scallopine with Saffron Cream Sauce ." In that recipe, Saffron is used as a condiment to improve the taste of the Chicken.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/chicken-scallopine-with-saffron-cream-sauce-recipe.html

Did You Know?

-The Saffron plant is a genetically monomorphic clone that is native to Southwest Asia. It was probably first cultivated in or near Greece.The wild precursor of domesticated saffron crocus is presumed to most likely be Crocus cartwrightianusC. thomasii or C. pallasii are considered to be other possible ancestors of Crocus Sativus.

-Due to the deliberate cultivation of certain Saffron breeds, the Saffron plant, Crocus Sativus, is now a plant that is sterile; it cannot reproduce. The only way it can propagate is through vegetative multiplication via manual "divide-and-set" of a starter clone or by interspecific hybridisation. Thus, to facilitate the reproduction and cultivation of the Saffron plant, farmers must dig up the clusters of corms, divide them, and plant them separately. Thus, every single Saffron plant is technically a clone of the very first Crocus Sativus.

-From the start of the Spice trade, and even till now, due to the fact harvesting Saffron is so laborious, An ounce of Saffron is more expensive than Gold. Thus, Thieves then plying Mediterranean waters would often ignore Gold ships and instead steal Venetian and Genoan-marketed Saffron bound for Europe. In fact, some unscrupulous Spice merchants (then and now) would sell either sell Adulterated Saffron (Saffron soaked in honey, mixed with marigold petals, or kept in damp cellars in order to add weight to those Adulterated Saffrons, and thus sell them at a higher price than what they are worth.) or pass off red-coloured strands of plastics as Saffrons. Due to this, Nuremberg authorities passed the Safranschou code to de-louse the saffron trade. Under this code, Spice merchants caught trying to sell Adulterated Saffron were thus fined, imprisoned, and executed by immolation. One particular punishment in ancient times involves tying up such Spice merchants, where their "Saffron" would be deliberately burnt in front of them, and those bound spice merchants would then be forced to inhale the fumes from the burnt "Saffron".

-In 1374, the theft of a Saffron shipment bound for Basel sparked a 14-week-long conflict between Basel and Austria. This event became known as the "Saffron War".

Other References

4 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. Actually, it is the styles of the Saffron plant that is tasteless. But yeah, it is rather weird that they would still consider the styles to be the spice sometimes, when the stamens have the taste.

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  2. Man you rally know a lot about all these things, how oculd you know the BenCao GangMU this a very famous books in china but i thought that most foreigners will not know. you are really something Man

    ReplyDelete
  3. Very informative post. It is very interesting to know that the Saffron plant has many different uses in the different cultures around the world.

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